Salt Lake City: DiMM Day 2

So for this course I'm going to attempt to give more details about what we do each day. Hopefully I'll be able to keep it up most evenings:)  The day started out with some breakfast and some discussion and rope cutting. We fashioned a Purcell prussik system from 6mm cord and two other prussiks and a 10m cordellette from 8mm cord. Then we headed out to Storm Mtn to do some climbing. The name was fitting as it rained quite a bit while we were there. The locals swear it never rains - was actually quite refreshing and better than baking in the sun. Below are my notes from the discussion.

Andy demonstrating using a prussik on a second line as a back up

Mountain Rescue Philosophy

Characteristics of Systems-

Whistle test- Everyone could let go and no one dies
Critical point - no one critical point - redundant - if someone cuts one rope nothing catastrophic occurs

Speed- fast vs slow, time involved, pt outcomes, risks - Basically when you set up a system you have to take a lot of factors into account - is the patient's condition time sensitive? what additional risks with "quicker" system?
Safety- helmet, gloves, closer than 1 body length -requires a tether

Rescue Roles:

Main line- build anchor, operate system
Belay line - same
Edge - transition - protecting rope
Attendant - with pt
Leader

Dave demonstrating multiple types of anchors

Priorities- self
- team
- pt
- environ/ equip

Knots we tied:

Overhand
Overhand on bite - hard to untie
Overhand follow through - bend

Figure 8
Figure 8 on bite
Figure 8 follow through - Flemish bend

Double fisherman

Anchors:

ERNEST: Equalized, Redundant, No-Extension, Solid, Timely

Knot decreases strength by 30 percent

High strength tie off.

3 wraps and figure 8 on bite.

Wrap 3 pull 2 with sling
Wrap 2 pull 1 with sling

Tie cordellette with bolin

Tie double knit for master point for redundancy.

Once at Storm mtn we went over some basic rappelling technique and discussed backing up belays on a single line with an autoblock or prussik. We also discussed rappelling with 2 lines. With a partner they can rig a belay line, using a munter hitch off a second anchor, which they back up with a prussik. Or if descending alone you can back up the system with a prussik on the belay line. We tested out both methods on the rock.



Dave demonstrating ascending

Next we discussed ascending a fixed line. We set up a partner belay from the top and using the purcell prusik system ascended the rope. One waist prussik was attached to the belay loop and to the rope, the shorter purcell prussik (basically two adjustable loops attached to a bite of rope that becomes a prussik). This second prussik was used for a foot hold. So basically you stand on one leg, push the waist prussik up, sit down, pull the foot prussik up and continue on all the way up. A good work out!!! 



Me ascending with prussiks



 After going over some anchors we headed down to the Salt Lake City Sherrif's office and learned about about SAR operations in the county. Then it was back up to Brighton for dinner. More to come tomorrow!